Hong Kong’s vibrant SoHo district welcomes Bourke’s, a new wine bar and restaurant led by the dynamic head chef Tara Margarita, who blends her diverse culinary experiences into a unique dining experience.
A Culinary Journey Shaped by Cultures
Tara Margarita, the creative force behind Bourke’s, emphasizes that hospitality is more than service—it’s about welcoming guests with genuine warmth. “It’s plain, simple, human love, and that’s all I’ve wanted to do,” she shares, reflecting her deep-rooted passion for food and connection.
Inspired by Melbourne’s bustling Bourke Street and its rich immigrant-influenced culinary scene, Margarita describes Bourke’s as “a little more casual” compared to traditional European wine bars. This casual approach allows her to infuse diverse flavors into the menu, a testament to her experiences living in Manila, Jakarta, Hong Kong, and Paris. “Australian food is so diverse and open-ended, which is perfect for me,” she explains. “My food translates that.”
Her ability to blend techniques from various culinary traditions sets Bourke’s apart. For instance, Margarita refines classic dishes with a modern twist. “Just as an example, for something as simple as the croquettes, I blended the panko – Japanese breadcrumbs – so that they would come out less rustic compared to other restaurants’ creations,” she says.
Crafting Unique Flavors with Attention to Detail
At Bourke’s, every dish tells a story of meticulous craftsmanship and innovation. Margarita’s signature chicken wings are a prime example of her dedication. “The chicken wings are not breaded at all and are completely gluten-free, but the process takes an entire day at minimum. I’ll brine them, dry them, steam them, dry them [again] and deep-fry them,” she explains. This method ensures a perfect balance of flavors and textures, offering diners a refined yet approachable menu.
Margarita’s commitment to excellence extends beyond taste. She aims to create dishes that stand out subtly, adding a touch of finesse that elevates the overall dining experience. “I don’t want to put something on the menu that other places have. I wanted to do something different, a tiny extra step to make it a bit better, whether anyone notices it or not,” she remarks. This philosophy is evident in every aspect of Bourke’s, from the carefully curated wine selection to the thoughtfully designed ambiance.
Signature Dishes:
- Gluten-Free Chicken Wings: Prepared through a meticulous process of brining, steaming, and deep-frying.
- Fusion Croquettes: Enhanced with panko breadcrumbs for a refined texture.
- Seasonal Tapas: Featuring global flavors with a modern twist.
Overcoming Challenges and Fostering Inclusivity
Margarita’s path to Bourke’s was anything but straightforward. Born in Makati, Manila, she moved to Jakarta and then Hong Kong at a young age, immersing herself in diverse culinary traditions. Her early exposure to food came from her father, who took the family to new restaurants every weekend, instilling a lifelong passion for cuisine.
After completing her university studies in Manila, Margarita worked for an airline in Hong Kong, where she felt disconnected from her true passion. “I was this tiny Asian girl with tattoos; everyone else was very corporate,” she recalls. The restrictive corporate environment pushed her to seek fulfillment elsewhere, leading her to part-time work in a poke restaurant and eventually pursuing a full-time culinary career.
Her stint in Paris as a sous chef broadened her horizons, allowing her to hone her skills in fine dining. However, the COVID-19 pandemic forced her to return to Hong Kong, where she worked at renowned establishments like Yardbird and Belon. The intense demands of fine dining led to burnout, prompting Margarita to shift her focus to creating a more balanced and inclusive kitchen culture.
Building Bourke’s: A Vision of Inclusivity and Excellence
Launching Bourke’s in November 2024 marked a significant milestone in Margarita’s career. Partnering with Brett Goss, the managing partner, she aimed to create a space that reflects her values of inclusivity and respect. “I knew I was with people I respected and who respected me,” she says, highlighting the importance of a supportive team environment.
Despite being often the only woman in the kitchen, Margarita is committed to fostering a positive and respectful workplace. “It’s so easy to get in that ‘men’s world’ mindset where you just yell at someone when they do something wrong. How does that make sense when we’re supposed to be feeding people?” she questions. Her leadership approach focuses on cultural change and nurturing a better kitchen environment, striving to eliminate toxic masculinity and promote teamwork.
Leadership Initiatives:
- Cultural Leadership: Encouraging respect and collaboration among all staff.
- Inclusive Hiring: Actively seeking diverse candidates to create a balanced team.
- Ongoing Training: Implementing training programs to address and prevent toxic behavior.
Margarita’s efforts extend beyond the kitchen. She is working on a book tentatively titled Kitchen Culture, drawing from her experiences to advocate for a healthier and more inclusive culinary industry. “It’s about more cultural leadership in the industry and nurturing a better kitchen culture for better chefs,” she asserts.
The Future of Bourke’s and the Culinary Scene
As Bourke’s opens its doors, Margarita envisions it as more than just a restaurant—it’s a community hub where diverse flavors and cultures intersect. Her goal is to provide diners with an exceptional culinary experience that celebrates diversity and fosters genuine connections.
With her extensive background and unwavering dedication, Tara Margarita is poised to make a significant impact on Hong Kong’s culinary landscape. Bourke’s stands as a testament to her belief that food is not just sustenance but an expression of love and culture. “The first place you eat is your mum feeding you – everyone forgets where it all came from. It’s supposed to be [about] love. How did we get so far?” she muses, emphasizing the heartfelt foundation of her culinary philosophy.
